Have we not shared with you this incredible song about all the lovely things contained in Haiti?

It's called ''Ayiti Se'' (Haiti Is),  and we have posted the English lyrics below. It's by the Haitian artist Mikaben. It's a great chance to hear some Kreyòl too. Enjoy!

Haiti is a pretty sea, a stunning mountain with beautiful rivers
It's pretty beaches with coconut trees, lovely landscapes with bright colors
Haiti is the smell of coffee that climbs up my nostrils at dawn
It's the scent of dew drops that's set for the budding of 10 o'clock flowers in the morning
Haiti is Bassin Bleu, the Pichon waterfalls along with Saut D'eau
It's the Arcadins isles, the Citadelle fort, it's Labadie and Marigot
Haiti is La Valée, Macaya's Peak, Marmelade and Pilboreau mountains

Haiti is dous makòs, it's a handful of grilled peanuts
It's a creamy smoothie that gives energy, it's an enticing bottle of ice cola
Haiti is some appetizing fried pork, it's a delicious fritter, some tasty fried goat
It's a delicious vegetable stew laden with crabs, it's flavorful rice with country greens
Haiti is a scrumptious broth, a pumpkin soup well-seasoned with bell peppers
It's mouthwatering cassava with peanut butter
That you dip in a corn shake
Haiti is a a dumpling that you marinate in bean sauce
It's pig woods, some good liquor
Haiti is the divine coffee that you drink at night

Chorus:
Precious Haiti, as much as I love you
I've come to put my heart in your hands
Haiti dear, as much as I adore you
Nothing will let me let go of you (x2)

Haiti is beautiful music, a street music band parade, a troubadour
It's a ceremony, a calabash dish, and a drum
Haiti is Ogou's land, the land our ancestors left for us
It's where slavery was abolished, it's the land of the free and the land of voudou
Haiti is festivals, it's night parties, it's ritual dances of Chanpetre
It's dancing and fun at Carnaval, it's a little island that never sleeps
Haiti is a game of dominoes, it's a winning hand of dice and cards
It's a Christmas Eve party with some good broth that keeps you awake

Haiti is a collective of farmers who get together to work the land
It's the women street vendors descending into the city
To go fight the hard life head to head
Haiti is a little kid that's dreaming of a bright future
It's the dirty water from sewer streams that doesn't quite know where it's going
Haiti is being under the tent since January 12th
It's mud on the levees that gives off a foul smell every time it rains
Haiti is the ground that knows true realities
It's a sad one, but by God's grace, it's not the only one that we can sing.

Chorus

Haiti is a mother that knows the meaning of pain
Who stands strong and tall, who's brave - even though she's aware that she's far from perfect
Haiti is a beautiful woman who's been through a lot
But who cleans up nicely so that her kids can walk with their heads up - proud
Haiti, it's all these things that make us love you
Even if the road is long, I know that we'll always be here to hold your hand
Haiti dear, believe me
Nothing will ever make me leave you
Let this song right here serenade you

Translation compliments of kreyolicious (with some minor changes)

Our first Escapades into the Dominican Republic

Our trip to the D.R. last week exposed us to a whole new world that is just a few hours away from us, across the border that separates these two different but forever linked countries that share the island of Hispaniola.

We traveled with MCC companions to meet with Mennonite pastors in the eastern town of Padre Las Casas and in the capitol of Santo Domingo, then Ted and I had two and a half full days to explore the finer parts of the city together. Rain and grey skies aside, it was a wonderful and relaxing dip into history, plus a cool cultural experience for us both!

First, we got to experience the Old World meets New World fusion in the architecture of the Catedral Primada de America, the oldest church in the New World that is still in use. The cathedral is parked right in Parque Colon, so named for Christopher Columbus (who is really Cristóbal Colón in Spanish.)

Though Columbus first landed in the north and western parts of the island, he set up shop in several spots in Haiti and the D.R., and Santo Domingo became the seat from which Spain governed all of its holds in the New World.

One major difference between Haiti and the D.R. is in the way they appreciate their histories. In Santo Domingo, Colombus' stamp was seen everywhere. From this park (above), to the ancient residences of his family members, which are now preserved and showcased as historical attractions, Dominican tourism draws heavily on this aspect of the island's history. Whereas in Haiti, colonial era history is scarcely preserved and Colombus is more likely to be despised for the era of exploitation he introduced. 

As much as the historian in me would be fascinated to explore a replica of a colonial era plantation or town in Haiti, none of this was preserved after the Haitian Revolution. Nor can I see that type of preservation taking place for touristic benefits. All plantations were purposefully razed to the ground by newly freed Haitians, who did not want such bold symbols of colonial power and human suffering to remain in their midst.

Next up, we visited this beautiful monastery, Convento de los Dominicos, made famous by Fray Bartolomé de las Casas. Las Casas was the Dominican friar who wrote extensively in defense of the native peoples in the Americas and was even named the first ''Protector of the Indians" by Spain. He wrote many of his famous works from this very church. This name from the history books came alive for me as we strolled along the pews, which were filled with newly initiated nuns and friars by the way! It was great to see such a noble figure from history honored in the city (a little break from all the Columbus fever around town.)

Dominicans are very proud of their history and revere their leaders who fought for independence, first from Spain in 1822 and then from Haiti. This is something the D.R. and Haiti seem to have in common. Their struggles for independence loom large in their current imaginations. The heroes of Haitian independence - Louverture, Dessalines, Petion  - are invoked with passion in electoral campaigns today. I had a Dominican pastor share with me in a I-hope-you-already-knew-this tone, ''you know, Dominicans fought for their independence from Haiti, not Spain." I got the sense this wasn't ancient history for many Dominicans, much like the American civil war is not ancient history in many parts of the U.S. 

At the Pantheon, the remains of some of these prominent figures from Dominican history are interned and guarded. Visitors keep a church-like silence.

Lunchtime showers had us scrambling inside for a quiet meal, as we listened to the increasingly dramatic rainfall splatter across the roof of our quaint but chic stone-walled restaurant. Instead of calling it a day and crawling back to our hotel room for loooong afternoon naps, we continued the sight-seeing once the rain subsided.

Behold! 

The final site of our tourism adventures of the day. The grey clouds rolled in once again (we could have sworn they were gone!) Ted ran across this plaza in the pouring rain, with our admission tickets in hand for the Alcazar de Colon. Diego Colon, Columbus' son, lived here at one time. Destroyed over the years but restored in the 20th century to be used as a museum, this site was fun to walk through, and even more fun to be stranded in for a bit by the rain. 

Waiting out the storm in my colonial-era perch.

Once the rain broke (for about 2 minutes), we ran across the plaza again, to sit at a renowned restaurant. Sure we had hoped to ''spruce up'' for the event, but our Tevas and Chacos had to do! We took our time, enjoying a meal that started at about 5:15pm, a little earlier than anticipated. :)

On Manners

Haitians are so formal, ya'll. I love it! This morning, we sat anba tonel - underneath the shaded meeting space -  in our office's backyard. We were meeting with two young pastor/attorneys, who have been working with Ted on the beginnings of a Christian legal association or network in Haiti.

These guys - both named Simeon - are enthusiastic about connecting legal professionals around the pillars of faith and justice. This morning, they held an informational meeting with another attorney, who is Haitian-American and the wife of a pastor here in town. She holds a lot of program planning, evaluating experience as well as a clear passion for Christianity and justice issues.

The meeting starts off so formally, like they often do. Each Simeon presented their name, background, and stated the purpose of the day's meeting.

There is a formality and high value placed on speech and presentation here in Haiti. When people enter a room, they make sure to give a general greeting to all who are present. If it's an individual greeting, they ask after you, and your family. Did you sleep well, did you have a good weekend. Visitors, at a church service or a prayer meeting, are often asked if they'd like to share a word with everyone present. One often prefaces their remarks with a ''Bondye ave nou" (God be with you) and the requisite response is promptly given, "Amen," before the speaker continues.

Haitians love to give speeches, and they are darn good at it.

In addition, people here are sharp dressers. The photo above serves as Exhibit A. You can bet Ted and I never look as snazzy as those with whom we are meeting. Shoe shiners dot the sidewalk between the office and our house. Kindergartners, college students, businessmen - they are all stopping to get their regular shoe shine for less than 50 cents a pop. 

Why do I appreciate this attention to appearance and to manner that I see exhibited in the Haitians I meet? I feel that it has something to do with the honor and respect that these mannerisms demonstrate - a respect for the given day, for the business, meeting, or task at hand; it connects somehow with the reverence Haitians have for the present moment.

Art!

While on the subject of Art, I wanted to share with you some beautiful papier mâché pieces that we bought while in the seaside town of Jacmel. Jacmel is known for its art, including especially its papier mâché. I fell in love with these bright, stunning colors!

If you see items you like, whether here or in the Apparent Project store, I want you to know that Ted and I will happily carry some crafts with us on our next visits to the U.S. This would be East Coast in late July/early August, and even a short trip in mid-late April. We'd be happy to ship items to wherever you are.

So let us know if, over the years, anything we share catches your eye. Of course, there are so many beautiful styles of Haitian handicrafts and artwork. Perhaps Ted and I will need to come home with a ''sampling'' sometime for friends to peruse and shop!

Where do we go... for a little respite?

Well, you might not guess that through a maze of dusty streets, just about a 5 minute drive from our place, there is a little hideout and beautiful boutique called the Apparent Project, home also to delicious smoothies and iced latte drinks at the Clay Cafe (double back flip, whoop!)

I realized yesterday, as I made a much celebrated drive to the Apparent Project for a nice cold beverage, that in our slew of posts since moving to Haiti we have not shared much that is tangible about our life here; there has not been much for you to hold on to in the way of images or vignettes about our daily living; our neighborhood, work space, home. It is my goal this week to write a few posts sharing such things with you.

First stop, our neighborhood treat that is a must-see for visitors - the Apparent Project - with some visual aids provided by my Windows phone.

Down a main road near our house, we veer to the right towards our destination. The streets on a Saturday are mercifully not very crowded....

Mounds of shifting gravel - each week in a slightly different formation - create obstacle courses along the way, as the roads get ever closer to actually being paved.

Our destination is tucked into this quiet neighborhood. (Don't worry, I was at a full stop while snapping most of these photos.)

Finally, at an unassuming barrier like the ones you see above, you rap at the gate and descend into this:

The Apparent Project is a non-profit shop, a Christian ministry that was started to train and provide jobs, mostly for vulnerable women. Tours are available all day long, and they keep trusty opening hours; 9-4, Mon-Sat.

Though these handicrafts are not cheap, every dollar of profit goes to support the livelihoods of the artists themselves. Filled with beautiful jewelry, linens, and pottery you can see how this spot is a treat for the eyes, and a pleasure to peruse.

Haiti's famous metal ironwork craft is presented here in lovely Scripture passages and floral designs.

The Clay Cafe, situated near the back of the Apparent Project, offers a little book nook for sitting and reading!

This is the Apparent Project. There are many rooms, not pictured above. It's a neighborhood gem, and has provided us with many a fun outing.

"Haitians Love Life"

A friend asked me to share on things we are learning and perceiving about Haitian culture. It’s taken me a little while to contemplate this. Culture is funny. It’s ever-present but elusive. When you try to put your finger on one aspect to define or explain it, it slips away. It can be hard to speak generally, when the variance of specifics greets you day by day.

Yet I've decided that one observation of mine can be expressed well in this statement made by a friend, Milo. It’s very simple but profound. “Haitians love life.”

The people of Haiti are generally very open. When walking down the street, you may see many grim or concentrated faces, but once you say “Bonjou” or “Bonswa” you are often gifted with the brightest smile and an equally bright “Bonjou!” in response.

Me, MCC country rep Wilda, and friend/co-worker Estere

Visitors often love and comment on this openness and the hospitality they receive at the hands of mere acquaintances in Haiti. The food portions are grand; the inquiries after your family and your well-being are persistent. People love to connect with others.

Haitians love to laugh, to joke, or “bay blag.” After a full day of staff meetings during November’s konbit, our co-worker who was coordinating the day’s events announced that the evening activity was to simply sit around and “bay blag” with each other. Who would say something like this in the U.S.? We don’t usually plan to sit down and joke with each other; it’s a gift when it happens, but it’s a big part of life here and something people love.

MCC staff Christmas party - lots of announcements and speeches and of course, laughter

Another detail that I love and speaks to me about the openness of the culture, is in the way people talk to each other. There is a French term of endearment that many people know, “ma cherie” in the feminine or “mon cher” in the masculine. In Kreyòl the spelling is different but the pronunciation is the same, and the term is well-used. Men say to other men ‘’mon cher” all the time. While passing by the street market a seller may call me “cherie,” asking what it is I want to buy. Something I associate as such an intimate phrase is freely used in kind greetings and good-humored banter here. I love it!

The presentation of 'secret Santa' gifts - MCC staff Christmas party

And finally, a closing observation.

I have two teenage boys in our backyard right now, emptying out our cistern by bucketing out the last 6 inches of water and then eventually scrubbing it clean. (It's not like they are getting paid the big bucks for this, by the way.) In the midst of their work, they are listening to Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On” on their radio and softly singing along. In the U.S., we make fun of music like Celine Dion’s –we say it’s cheesy. And why is that? Because we are cynical! Perhaps cynicism is not so pervasive here. I think that many Haitians are realists, but enjoy life all the same.

Jacmel

January 2-4, we made our first visit to Jacmel, one of Haiti's most famous cities - known for its culture & art, history, and its annual Carnaval celebration.

We stayed at the picturesque Cyvadier Hotel, with a dining and pool area that overlooks a cove. The soundtrack of crashing waves keeps you company all day and night. It's beautiful!

While I am tempted to overwhelm you with pictures of this gorgeous town, full of street art and galleries, I will control myself, and just share a few gems that will hopefully have you thinking about the next American and Delta flights to Haiti!

Old buildings still showing their color in downtown Jacmel. Screaming for new paint but still speaking loudly of their history.

Jacmel was a major coffee export starting in the 1770s, until Port-au-Prince became the preferred port under the U.S. occupation in the early 20th century.

Street and boardwalk art... love it!

The ooolld market. Filled with thousands of sellers and buyers on market days.

A view of Jacmel from the mountainside on our way to the famous Basin Bleu for a hike and swim.

To see my many Instagrams from Jacmel, go here.

And finally, the view from our dining area, each morning and evening. Not bad, right?!

The beach, delicious food, and the many artistic treasures of downtown Jacmel made us excited for a return trip. It's just two and a half hours from Port-au-Prince. While the windy and mountainous drive may have you reaching for your Dramamine, the destination is clearly every bit worth the journey. :)

Adventures

Within some of the day-to-day here in Haiti - getting up, making breakfast, washing dishes- I can forget what an adventure we are on, and what a privilege it is to be here.

In coming to Haiti, we have the honor of trying to learn a new culture and language. Studying Kreyol is really fun for us. Our first set of lessons occupied our three week home stay in Dezam, and they have continued every Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings through the end of next week. Ted and I would both like to become "Kreyol masters," I think. We see other foreigners who have worked here for years and we admire their language abilities. We want to be like them! But that mindset will discourage us more days than not while we're here. Some days we advance, and other days we can feel stuck in the mud.

We are still "kids" in a lot of ways. Learning a new language is not just about acquiring words, but about understanding innumerable nuances, gestures, and expressions. After three years here, we still won't understand most of these things! Learning language is about learning a new culture, really. And this is not an overnight process with some fast track option - not at all.

In the midst of our day-to-day, we need to remember that this is not our native context but appreciate the fact that we are here. It is a gift.

The two of us on our introductory tour of downtown, outside of the national museum