During our first 9 months with MCC in Haiti, there have been a couple instances where I have thought to myself,

"Wow, this is one of the hardest things I've ever done,"

and at the same time,

"This is one of the most fun, rewarding experiences I've ever had!"

Both of the times I have felt these things, concurrently, and most strongly, were during work trips to Washington DC.

And, I see that I haven't blogged about either of them! I believe this goes to show how these times were so impactful, and therefore difficult to put into words.

Last November, Ted and I worked with MCC and CWS staff in Haiti and Washington DC to pull off a 3-day advocacy event in DC, which included a full-day Housing Conference featuring panelists from 6 Haitian civil society and other organizations. Each person brought their own niche of expertise to the conference - two of them had never traveled outside of Haiti and the Dominican Republic - and a few were well-seasoned travelers, bringing decades of academic or political experience to bear on their presentations.

The majority of our delegation.

The conference was a success. We had great participation, and good follow-up meetings with the State Department, a congressional representative's office, and the National Security Council, as well as with other NGOs. Working as a team, across physical, cultural, and even some ideological divides was invigorating and even a bit other-worldly at times. (Lack of sleep and running on lots of adrenaline added to this effect too I'm sure.)

The three-day event was also intended as an opportunity for civil society leaders in Haiti to sit down next to representatives of Haiti's governing housing unit, to exchange perspectives and ideas for solutions to Haiti's longstanding housing crisis. This was a unique, and charged, aspect of our advocacy work over these few days. It's very rare for government and civil society in Haiti to sit down together where the gap between the authorities and the general population is wide.

We felt there were significant breakthroughs as a result of these efforts. Maybe not breakthroughs for all of Haiti, but some personally and professionally for our delegation. And it was certainly an initiation (i.e. trial by fire) for us as newbies with MCC Haiti. The journalist on our delegation was able to mend a relationship with the government official who participated - a relationship that had turned soured over the last couple years without our journalist friend understanding the reason why. (It turns out he had quoted the official in an article when the official understood the conversation to be ''off the record.'')

The same government official surprised us by ''crashing'' our post-conference advocacy meetings with the State Department and National Security Council. (They were invited to the conference, but not these meetings, in which we planned to share about human rights abuses in Haiti, that often reveal the complicity of Haitian authorities!) It was awkward, to say the least.

Yet, a human rights attorney on our delegation shared afterwards that he ''never thought [he] could sit side-by-side in a meeting with someone who speaks a different language than [him].'' By this he meant the different philosophy and ideology those in power seem to have towards the poor majority in Haiti. Yet, through these awkward exchanges the attorney started to see how human rights defenders can - and must - look for and take advantage of opportunities to be in meaningful dialogue with those in power. It is better to engage than to disengage, when possible.

Four members of our delegation: the pensive professor in the back (right), an attorney,
community organizer and pastor involved in community-based housing projects.
(Photo credit: Milo Milfort)

There was also a lot of laughter over our week together. 

Ted and I traveled from Haiti with four members of our delegation. (As a caveat, a fifth, prominent member of our delegation never got on the plane, causing some additional panic on our end.) We offered what translation we could after four months in Haiti. Some of the more hilarious exchanges had to do with ordering fast food at restaurants for a big group, attempting to explain all the sandwich options at Subway and the fact that you can order chicken without bones at Bojangles. One member of our delegation exclaimed, ''Chicken without bones?!'' at the most appropriate and hilarious moment. Another team member - a first-time traveler - asked me twice, "I can really mix the drinks at the soda fountain?" Yes, I know. Our country is pretty ridiculous isn't it. One long day ended in a spontaneous dance party at Busboys and Poets after a less-than satisfying turnout for our film screening.

Throughout this whole trip, I felt that we were truly running in the spirit of ''degaje,'' which is the Haitian Kreyòl equivalent of ''to make do,'' but I feel like it expresses something more. There is a hint of our English language proverb in there, ''when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade.'' That night at Busboys and Poets was definitely a lemonade night.

In the coordination - of programming, and logistics - and the flurry of languages as well as the exhaustion of travel, long days, and switching between life in Haiti and the U.S. capital - I felt pressed in a way I haven't before, pressed to the point that I could hardly believe ''we are actually doing this!''

The entire trip was a delight, extremely challenging, rewarding, tiring - all at the same time. An experience we will truly never forget.

(Photo credit: Milo Milfort)

And what about our second experience in D.C., you ask? This was just last week. Stay tuned...!

Home

It's about time we shared some photos of our home here in Haiti. I had said earlier that it was my goal to share some posts this week that give you a more concrete picture of our day-to-day life. 

I admit that only a couple of the photos below give you a sense of the real layout of our space (sorry about that), but I hope the flourishes captured here, from both inside our home and the yard, help you see and appreciate what we also love about this space - the light, the color, the solace we can experience in this little corner of ours in Haiti.

More Haitian artwork, from the "iron village" just outside of Port-au-Prince

Fond memories of last year's trip to the UK.

Art!

While on the subject of Art, I wanted to share with you some beautiful papier mâché pieces that we bought while in the seaside town of Jacmel. Jacmel is known for its art, including especially its papier mâché. I fell in love with these bright, stunning colors!

If you see items you like, whether here or in the Apparent Project store, I want you to know that Ted and I will happily carry some crafts with us on our next visits to the U.S. This would be East Coast in late July/early August, and even a short trip in mid-late April. We'd be happy to ship items to wherever you are.

So let us know if, over the years, anything we share catches your eye. Of course, there are so many beautiful styles of Haitian handicrafts and artwork. Perhaps Ted and I will need to come home with a ''sampling'' sometime for friends to peruse and shop!

Where do we go... for a little respite?

Well, you might not guess that through a maze of dusty streets, just about a 5 minute drive from our place, there is a little hideout and beautiful boutique called the Apparent Project, home also to delicious smoothies and iced latte drinks at the Clay Cafe (double back flip, whoop!)

I realized yesterday, as I made a much celebrated drive to the Apparent Project for a nice cold beverage, that in our slew of posts since moving to Haiti we have not shared much that is tangible about our life here; there has not been much for you to hold on to in the way of images or vignettes about our daily living; our neighborhood, work space, home. It is my goal this week to write a few posts sharing such things with you.

First stop, our neighborhood treat that is a must-see for visitors - the Apparent Project - with some visual aids provided by my Windows phone.

Down a main road near our house, we veer to the right towards our destination. The streets on a Saturday are mercifully not very crowded....

Mounds of shifting gravel - each week in a slightly different formation - create obstacle courses along the way, as the roads get ever closer to actually being paved.

Our destination is tucked into this quiet neighborhood. (Don't worry, I was at a full stop while snapping most of these photos.)

Finally, at an unassuming barrier like the ones you see above, you rap at the gate and descend into this:

The Apparent Project is a non-profit shop, a Christian ministry that was started to train and provide jobs, mostly for vulnerable women. Tours are available all day long, and they keep trusty opening hours; 9-4, Mon-Sat.

Though these handicrafts are not cheap, every dollar of profit goes to support the livelihoods of the artists themselves. Filled with beautiful jewelry, linens, and pottery you can see how this spot is a treat for the eyes, and a pleasure to peruse.

Haiti's famous metal ironwork craft is presented here in lovely Scripture passages and floral designs.

The Clay Cafe, situated near the back of the Apparent Project, offers a little book nook for sitting and reading!

This is the Apparent Project. There are many rooms, not pictured above. It's a neighborhood gem, and has provided us with many a fun outing.

The World Bank declines to hear Haitians' complaint over troubling mining practices

This week the World Bank Inspection Panel announced that it would not hear a complaint filed by six Haitian civil society organizations who are concerned about plans for mining in at least five of Haiti's central and northern departments.

The World Bank, since 2013, has been involved in helping the Haitian Government rewrite a 1976 mining law that would, in effect, make mining a more attractive investment for the American and Canadian companies that have been exploring Haiti's soil for the past several years.

View of landscape in Haiti's northeastern department. (Photo credit: Ted Oswald)

The Haitian Government has been divided over plans for mining activity. In early 2013, after hearing that 15% of Haitian land was already under contract with foreign mining companies without their proper approval, the Haitian parliament placed a moratorium on all mining.

[Read: Haitian Groups Wary of “Attractive” Mining Law]

It was at this time the executive recommended revamping the old law with the help of the World Bank, in order to help prospects for mining to move forward. Indeed, the current administration is looking to mining as one of the essential industries in helping Haiti "build back better."

Sampling over the past five years have revealed that Haiti has gold worth up to $20 billion, which doesn't include other valuable minerals such as copper and silver.

Yet local communities and the six civil society groups that make up the Justice in Mining Collective (Koleftif Jistis Min) are concerned about the new law and the way they see things proceeding.

Thus far, the new law has been drafted in consultation with mining experts, World Bank staff, and the Haitian government. Civil society has been notably absent, or rather, uninvited to the decision-making table. On one occasion, a few members of civil society were invited to a mining forum at one of Port-au-Prince’s fanciest hotels, but were not afforded an opportunity to speak.

It is feared that, in Haiti’s current political crisis where President Martelly is ruling “by decree,” the draft mining law could be passed by executive order, without even parliamentary approval.

 Patrico in Haiti's northern department. Many communities have reported mining companies coming
uninvited onto their land to dig for soil samples over the past several years. In most cases the communities
don't clearly understand what it is the companies are doing there. (Photo credit: Ted Oswald)

[Read: As Haiti's Parliament Dissolves, Oversight in Billions in Gold Mining Could Be Axed]

In January, the Justice in Mining Collective, with the help of the Accountability Counsel and NYU Global Justice Clinic filed a complaint to the Inspections Panel of the World Bank, over the high risk of environmental and social impacts of mining as well as the lack of information and participation available to communities over mining plans.

One particularly troubling clause in the new draft law allows for a ten-year confidentiality period for all documents pertaining to ongoing mining in Haiti.

Despite these concerns, which could affect tens of thousands of individuals in Haiti’s northern departments, the World Bank denied hearing the complaint filed by the Justice in Mining Collective on technical grounds.

[Read Press Release: World Bank Refuses to Consider Haitian Communities' Complaint about New Mining Law]

The Pueblo Viejo gold mine in neighboring Dominican Republic is one of the ten largest in the world
and is an example of open pit mining. It is part of the same Massif du Nord Metallogenic Belt as Haiti.
(Photo credit: Pulitzer Center)

According to the Panel, the transparency and public involvement typically required of World Bank-sponsored projects does not apply to projects funded by the “Bank-Executed Trust Fund,” such as the rewriting of Haiti's mining law, though the Panel admits that it ought to and recommends that reform take place in the World Bank system.

The Panel also conceded that there are significant risks associated with mining, and acknowledged the legitimacy of the Collective’s concerns.

Though the Bank is a key actor in the rewriting of the law and regularly touts the importance of public involvement and local participation, it is acting in this case as yet another exclusionary force that bars Haitian voices in matters that concern their own livelihoods. The Bank must realize that in Haiti's current context, where the government is generally closed off to local opinion, local populations have no audience with decision-makers.

As international backers of the new mining law and investors in the industry, the World Bank must heed Haitians' concerns over mining.

Devotionals

"An important discipline in the life of the Spirit is spiritual reading. Through spiritual reading we have some say over what enters into our minds. Each day our society bombards us with a myriad of images and sounds... do we really want our mind to become the garbage can of the world?" (Nouwen, Here and Now, p. 80)

Now that sentiment gets one's attention, doesn't it?! In recent weeks and months, I've found myself enjoying some profound new devotional materials. They aren't necessarily defined as such (i.e. for daily or weekly reading with reflection questions, etc), but they are complimenting each other and my journey so well this season that I wanted to share and recommend!

Henri Nouwen, "Here and Now"

I picked this one up from our office library, which is furnished with hundreds of books either donated or carried down by volunteers over the past few decades. Categorized by chapter, Nouwen's book explores a wide variety of topics. As in many of his works, Nouwen’s central concern is in bringing readers to the present moment –the here and now – trusting God more fully, and delighting in who He is.

The chapters in Nouwen’s book have seemed to come at just the right moments. I first picked this up while home over Christmas, the night before our family celebration of Ted’s 30th birthday (done one month early, so that we could all be together.) A few pages in, Nouwen talks about the special meaning of birthdays, because in them we are given a chance to celebrate a person for who they are- not because of graduation, job promotion or some fine achievement. (I read this aloud before we dug into his chocolate cake the next evening; though I think everyone was just eager to dig into the cake. ;) And then, in early January, I read his exhortation to fight fatalism and lean towards faith. This was on the eve of the 5-year earthquake anniversary in Haiti and a fresh onslaught of negative journalism coverage. His reflection was timely and helpful for the discouragement we can face in our work.

David Winter, "Closer than a Brother"

Closer than a Brother is a re-interpretation of the famous meditation of Brother Lawrence, Practicing the Presence of God. Given to us a few years ago by my mother-in-law, I've read it once and Ted and I are now re-reading it together, "book-on-spouse" style as my dad would say :)

Each chapter is a conversation between the author and Laurie, the kitchen cook at the hospital where they both work. It's full of reminders of the overwhelming presence of God in the day-to-day, and some of the "simple truths" about our faith that are profound and yet still so hard to grasp. A common theme in a few books that I am reading right now is summed up in the most recent chapter we read in Winter's book: "All He really wants is me." A helpful, sort of mind-bending truth, isn't it?

"Living the Christian Year, Time to Inhabit the Story of God"

This was given to me by a friend about a year ago, and it has enriched some of the past ''holy seasons'' immeasurably! The starting premise of the Christian Calendar is that each season is holy. I had never heard of Ordinary Time or quite understood the season of Epiphany or even the Twelve Days of Christmas before reading this book. The book begins with a great explanation of the history and meaning behind the Christian calendar, which is typically followed in the more orthodox Christian traditions and not American Protestantism. It then has guided Scripture reading, prayer and mediation points for each week of the year.

Ted and I especially appreciated the readings on Advent and the Twelve Days of Christmas. Every night we had a common Scripture to read. It helped ground us in the season, in the midst of the strong pull towards frenzy and increased busyness. (I must say, being in Haiti helped with that in its own way.) The explanations on Christmas traditions were also very enlightening. I loved discovering that the Twelve Days begin on Christmas. So really, the party is just getting started! After 40 days of anticipation, the celebration is not over in one day. It's meant to last over twelve days of intentional celebration and joy.

We aren't picking this up every single night, but what's wonderful is that it's always there and makes it easy to delve into the current season. Now with Lent beginning, I am looking forward to using this more intentionally once again.

We welcome your feedback and other suggestions!

"Haitians Love Life"

A friend asked me to share on things we are learning and perceiving about Haitian culture. It’s taken me a little while to contemplate this. Culture is funny. It’s ever-present but elusive. When you try to put your finger on one aspect to define or explain it, it slips away. It can be hard to speak generally, when the variance of specifics greets you day by day.

Yet I've decided that one observation of mine can be expressed well in this statement made by a friend, Milo. It’s very simple but profound. “Haitians love life.”

The people of Haiti are generally very open. When walking down the street, you may see many grim or concentrated faces, but once you say “Bonjou” or “Bonswa” you are often gifted with the brightest smile and an equally bright “Bonjou!” in response.

Me, MCC country rep Wilda, and friend/co-worker Estere

Visitors often love and comment on this openness and the hospitality they receive at the hands of mere acquaintances in Haiti. The food portions are grand; the inquiries after your family and your well-being are persistent. People love to connect with others.

Haitians love to laugh, to joke, or “bay blag.” After a full day of staff meetings during November’s konbit, our co-worker who was coordinating the day’s events announced that the evening activity was to simply sit around and “bay blag” with each other. Who would say something like this in the U.S.? We don’t usually plan to sit down and joke with each other; it’s a gift when it happens, but it’s a big part of life here and something people love.

MCC staff Christmas party - lots of announcements and speeches and of course, laughter

Another detail that I love and speaks to me about the openness of the culture, is in the way people talk to each other. There is a French term of endearment that many people know, “ma cherie” in the feminine or “mon cher” in the masculine. In Kreyòl the spelling is different but the pronunciation is the same, and the term is well-used. Men say to other men ‘’mon cher” all the time. While passing by the street market a seller may call me “cherie,” asking what it is I want to buy. Something I associate as such an intimate phrase is freely used in kind greetings and good-humored banter here. I love it!

The presentation of 'secret Santa' gifts - MCC staff Christmas party

And finally, a closing observation.

I have two teenage boys in our backyard right now, emptying out our cistern by bucketing out the last 6 inches of water and then eventually scrubbing it clean. (It's not like they are getting paid the big bucks for this, by the way.) In the midst of their work, they are listening to Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On” on their radio and softly singing along. In the U.S., we make fun of music like Celine Dion’s –we say it’s cheesy. And why is that? Because we are cynical! Perhaps cynicism is not so pervasive here. I think that many Haitians are realists, but enjoy life all the same.